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Take a Bao: Chef Siddharth Somaiya Talks About the Latest Food Rage in the Country

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The kitchen is bustling with cooks preparing baos of all different varieties. Customers have flocked outside the door. Calls are pouring in and orders are being parcelled in little cardboard boxes, before the delivery boys head out to a number of locations, all over town. That’s what Sunday night looks like at The Bao Haus Co.

 

We’re at the two-week-old takeout/ delivery joint in Colaba, one of the few places currently serving baos (fluffy Oriental steamed buns stuffed with all sorts of fillings) in the city. Owned by 26-year-old Chef Siddharth Somaiya, the Bao Haus Co. is a small kitchen set-up with an equally small, but carefully crafted menu. As we make ourselves comfortable in Siddharth’s tiny work area, complete with a desk, a computer that reveals several pending orders and a bookshelf with a fine selection of culinary reads, he tells us how he first had the ‘bao’ idea.

 

 

“My first bao experience was at Baohaus in New York. We tried the Pork Belly Bao and it was fantastic. The next bao I tried was in Hong Kong, at a place called Little Bao. This inspired me to explore my culinary dream and The Bao Haus Co. materialised,” says Siddharth.

 

What’s with the obsession, lately, over the little stuffed buns though? There’s no denying that baos have become quite the talk of the town; what with The Fatty Bao opening up several outlets across the country – in Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore. Siddharth looks at it from a global perspective though. According to him, the bao culture has shot up globally and every major metropolitan has a bao joint opening up-whether that’s Sydney or Frankfurt or Los Angeles. “It’s a trend that a lot of restaurants are adopting. Fatty Bao is the only restaurant that has managed to go pan India with the concept. We’ve definitely made it cheaper as we want people to eat authentic Taiwanese food,” he says, handing us two drinks – Kaffir Lime and Watermelon Hibiscus. Both drinks are refreshing, but I’d choose the latter any day. The drinks tease our appetite and we can’t wait to dig into the baos.

 

 

First up is the Pork Belly Bao, which has slices of pork belly imported from Belgium, pickled daikon (white radish) and a generous sprinkle of peanut sugar. “We believe that every bao needs to have a texture variation and a temperature variation so that your taste buds have an explosion every time you take a bite,” says Siddharth, explaining the menu and the inspiration behind each dish. All I can say is “Mission accomplished!” The pork belly was succulent, flavourful, and perfectly complemented by the pickles and peanut sugar. Every bite was an explosion of flavour!

 

I can tell that the quality of ingredients is of a whole different standard at The Bao Haus Co. And Siddharth confirms that freshness is indeed a key factor in developing a remarkable dish. All his breads, sauces and accompaniments are prepared in-house, unlike most takeout joints these days.

 

 

“The dishes on our menu are a delicious combination of spices, innovative cooking techniques and the best ingredients available in the market. A few key ingredients are also imported to ensure authenticity of the dish,” he adds.

 

Apart from a Coconut Shrimp Bao, a Buttermilk Fried Chicken Bao and a handful of others, the menu also features a Belgian Pork Belly Burger, Leek Fritters, Prawn Crackers, Chilled Carrot Soup, Nasi Goreng Arancini, Hickory Smoked Wings and Fries served with Spicy Bacon Jam. The lone dessert is a Chocolate Bao stuffed with brûlée banana and marshamallow, and sprinkled with hazelnut.

 

Siddharth rustled up a Buttermilk Fried Chicken Bao, which was topped with a delicious honey sriracha glaze and sesame slaw. We loved the way the combination of the hot fried chicken and the cold slaw teased our palettes. We hardly expected the Coconut Shrimp Bao to outdo this one. But it did. The coconut-flavoured fried shrimp along with tamarind glaze, spicy mayo and kaffir lime salt was literally like ‘Thailand in a bao.’ The Nasi Goreng Arancini, which is nasi goreng-flavoured risotto and cheddar balls served with spicy peanut sauce, was just as delectable.

 

 

 

As we savour our meal, we notice that the kitchen orders have eased up and Siddharth joins us soon enough in his cabin. The chatty chef, who just couldn’t see himself in the family jewellery business, studied at The Culinary Institute of America. Passionate not just about his new venture, but about food in general, he says, “I love the various experimental concepts such as dinners by home chefs, secret suppers, food trucks, customised meals and a very fresh approach towards food,” as we discuss the food scene in Mumbai. What he’s not so thrilled about though is the hype around new food start-ups that, he finds, dies down too quickly. “Everyone wants a big launch,” he says, “but they’re unable to sustain their brand as per their customer’s expectations.”

 

So how does he plan to live up to the promise of providing a gourmet experience at affordable prices? “Considering our central kitchen is in Colaba, we have restricted delivery – only upto Chowpatty – to ensure that the food delivered is exactly the way it was when it left the kitchen. Freshness is most important to us.”

 

 

Biting into the Belgian Pork Belly Burger, I have to agree with him. The meat along with caramelised onions and a slice of The Bao Haus Co. special sriracha cheddar in a fresh bun just hits the spot. This has got to be my favourite item on the menu and at a price of just Rs.300, I highly recommend you try it.

 

Despite the relatively cheap prices of Rs.250 to Rs.300, The Bao Haus Co. does cater to a niche clientele. “My venture aims to create a niche for Pan-Asian street food within the city and cater to individuals with a versatile appetite for world cuisines,” says Siddharth enthusiastically.

 

 

Well, we certainly hope he expands soon because driving all the way to town does seem a little inconvenient. As if reading our minds, Siddharth says, “We are dreaming big too but we want to focus on getting everything right before we choose to expand and cater to a larger customer base.” But don’t wait until then; the bao experience is worth a trip to Colaba for sure!

 

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