As a Malayali who grew up in Delhi and then moved to Mumbai, I was always dismayed by the conspicuous absence of the food of my people on the maps of these metropolises. Though restaurants serving food influenced by the culinary traditions of my state have since popped up on the food scene, the layman is still missing out on the incredible gastronomical culture of Kerala.
The mention of South Indian food, still mostly conjures up images of masala dosas and idli, but the Deccan has very distinct food cultures–with a single state offering up multiple cuisines developed by its different communities. Kerala’s food history is a truly unique one, because the coastal state’s palate was influenced not just by the terroir and its produce but also the many foreign visitors who docked on its shores over many, many centuries.
While Malayali food may not be as ubiquitous as idli-sambar, its charms have attracted many a dedicated foodies. That god’s own country is also a tourist haven helps too. If I have convinced you to peek into Malayali food, let me also share with you five lesser-known delicacies which are authentic to the state.
1. Pazham pori with beef curry
This combination is native to the menus of Kochi and is a really unorthodox one too. Sweet banana fritters (pazham pori) are served with a spicy beef curry and the result is a unique dish.
2. Kappa biryani
Not many know this, but Mallus love their tapioca (kappa). Kappa is a hot favourite at breakfast, served with coconut chutney or a spicy fish curry. Kappa biryani combines soft-boiled tapioca with a spicy gravy loaded with beef chunks and the state’s homegrown spices.
3. Naadan mussels fry
As much as we Malayalis love our beef, we love seafood even more. Our seafood repertoire involves many mussel recipes. A really popular variant includes mussels cooked with dry spices like pepper, cumin, nutmeg, and a lot of coconut oil.
4. Kuzhimanthi biriyani
This is a Yemeni recipe (Mandi) which was brought home and nativised by Kerala’s Gulf NRIs. Lamb was replaced by chicken, which is slow cooked in a pit and served over spiced rice. This newfangled creation can now be found in restaurants all over the state.
5. Ela ada
The one thing missing from Malayali food is a wide variety of desserts. We have a couple of payasams but that is pretty much it. What a lot of Malayalis do love is an ada. It is eaten either as breakfast or a snack and is a rice ravioli of sorts with sweet fillings like jackfruit preserve, bananas, and sweetened coconut. A true delight!
